|Certain terms, descriptions, statements or opinions in our product reviews for the above average caster or angler will seem mondane. The reason being that the proficient caster and/ or angler can take most any rod
, reel, line/ outfit if it is matched and cast it easily whether it costs $600.00 or $100.00. This is due to the fact that an experienced caster can redily adjust their casting stroke to match the rod action, whereas, the beginner will look for an "exact feel" of the rod he or she is familiar with. The
adjustment comes slower or not at all.
So when you see phrases such as "makes casting effortless" to an experienced caster, all their casts are effortless, therefore, this has no meaning. However, for the average angler, this phrase could mean the difference as to whether he or she will try the product or not.
Our reviews and evaluations are designed for the everyday consumer and not for the 10-15% who are the pro's.
If we use terms and phrases that seem repetitive, we apologize. There are only so many ways that we can say "Great, Good, OK, or Bad". And again, the reviews are not biased and are the opinions of the person making the evaluation.
Glossary of terms used when describing fly rods:
Cigar grips: This thin cork protrudes slightly in the center. You will find it on lighter-weight rods used to catch smaller fish.
Half-well grips: Used on medium-weight rods, the half-well has a flare on one end that allows you a better grip when fighting medium-sized fish. It may also help you achieve a longer cast.
Full-well grips: Prevalent on heavier rods, full-well cork is thicker than other cork, allowing a better grip for fighting large fish.
Get to know fly fishing rod guides
Fly fishing rods use three types of loops to guide your line.
Stripping guides: The first guide on a rod helps prevent the line from tangling and reduces friction between the line and other guides.
Snake guides: The majority of the guides on a rod are snake guides. These small metal loops keep the line close to the rod when you cast.
Tip-top guide: The guide at the top of the rod keeps the line close to the rod and helps controls which direction a line goes when you cast.
Butt plate: Butt plates come on rods that use line weights one through six.
Fighting extension: An extension behind the reel seat helps anglers fight larger fish. You will find fighting extensions on rods that use line weights seven and higher.
Up-locking reel seats: Popular on medium and heavy rods, up-locking reels provide room between your reel and the end of the rod and rarely get in the way.
Down-locking reel seats: Down-locking reel seats located at the end of a rod work the same way as up-locking reel seats. Its position can make it difficult to fight a fish.
Sliding band reel seats: Two sliding bands hold the foot of the reel. It is used on some light rods fitted with light reels and the bands do not lock.
Fly Rod Action and Application:
Full Flex, Soft Action,
Flex Index 2.5 - 5.5-
Well suited for close range, delicate casting.
Protects light tippets best due to full flex shock absorption.
Responds well to a gentle casting stroke.
Offers superior "feel" when fighting a fish.
A traditional favorite action for many anglers for years.
Mid Flex, Medium Action,
Flex Index 6 - 9
Excellent performance over a wide range of conditions and casting styles.
The largest percentage of fly rods overall are mid-flex.
Great combination of butt strength for fighting fish, and medium flex for casting ease.
A great choice for the angler who needs one rod for a variety of conditions.
Tip Flex, Fast Action,
Flex Index 9.5 - 12.5-
Gives the tightest casting loops for greatest range and distance when using some of the newer fly line designs (especially sink tip lines above 100 grain).
Allows quick, short casting strokes with minimal rod angle change.
Less movement improves tracking and resists "wind loading".
Light tip gives "light in the hand" feel.
Rod Flex Chart- general reference only
Capt's Dave Beshara and Skip Montello