Destination Review:

Coopers’ Minipi Camps, Labrador, Canada

COOPERS’ MINIPI CAMPS

Review Date: February 16, 2006

Reviewer: Ed Jaworowski

Introduction:

As one of several writers chosen by the Canadian Embassy in Washington, DC to sample select trout and salmon fisheries in Labrador, I first visited Minipi Camps about a dozen years ago. Since then, I have returned to Minipi Camps at least five times to fish for its legendary brook trout. The camps have been in operation for close to 30 years, and the fishery was first brought to anglers’ attention by Lee Wulff many years prior. Minipi Camps afford a truly remote, wilderness experience. This is one of the best opportunities remaining in North America for an angler to catch trophy brook trout of seven or eight pounds or more.

The Lodges:

Jack and Lorraine Cooper and their son Robin own and manage Coopers’ Minipi Camps. The three lodges are rustic, comfortable, cozy, and picturesque. Delicious home-cooked meals by great cooks start and end each fishing day. Minipi Lodge: the cedar lodge near the outlet of 38-mile long Lake Minipi is by far the largest (10 double bedrooms, 4 baths) of the three lodges. The scenery downstream is awesome. Anne Marie: the original lodge site. AML is a sentimental favorite for Minipi repeaters. A new lodge is being constructed (completion expected by summer’s end, 2006) to replace the venerable old log cabin upon which time and rough Canadian weather have taken their toll. Minonipi: at the top of the Minipi chain, generally has a shorter fishing season than the other lodges, but can provide intense fishing activity and some of the largest fish.

The River Systems:

A chain of lakes, Minonipi, Anne Marie, and Minipi, and flowages linking them, mark the Minipi watershed. Minipi has all the requirements needed to produce world class trout fishing: cold water (65 degrees or less), remote location with limited access, diverse topography (riffles, rapids, wide shallow lakes), and abundant insect life, especially caddis and mayflies. Juvenile fish remain in the streams of the system, and leave the open lake waters exclusively to the large specimens of the strain. To trout anglers who “don’t like to fish lakes”, I can reply that the lakes are not really “lakes” in the generally accepted sense of the word, but rather widened portions of the rivers. Cast a line anywhere and you will notice it drifts slowly, inexorably with the current. In narrower stretches the current picks up and then slows again as a lake widens. You’ll also find great fishing in large pools in the faster river sections.

The Guides:

During my six trips, I have fished with many of the guides employed by Minipi Camps. Without exception, all worked hard to find fish and show me a good day’s sport. They also share wonderful tales of life and fishing in the north woods. They are, without exception, skilled handlers of the long, stable, outboard powered canoes and aluminum boats, and can put you into range and position to make your presentations. Some like to explore less common waters on occasion. Let them know if you are up for it. It might involve portaging into little known lakes. That’s how they discover new honey holes.

The Fishing:

Of course, brook trout, arguably one of the prettiest fish on earth, are the dominant species. The season runs from ice-out, usually early-mid June, through late August. I’ve fished these waters at every stage of the season and had good fishing in each. As soon as enough ice melts to make fishing feasible, you will find fish feeding immediately and actively on dry flies. Unexpectedly, these early season fish are not slim “snakes”, but fat and plump. I have to assume they actively feed under the ice during winter and spring. Late season fish (mid-late August) assume brilliant spawning colors. With limited predation of larger specimens, and a constant and copious insect diet, the brook trout live long and grow large. For more than 20 years, the camp average has been about five and a quarter pounds. All fish over three pounds are weighed and released. The trout cruise and roam different parts of the lakes throughout the season, because of diverse insect activity. One year I had great fishing near the ‘beaver pond” on Anne Marie Lake, yet a month later in the following year, the same area was all but devoid of fish. All activity was taking place miles up the lake. The fish simply migrate as the insect hatches progress. I once caught a tagged brook trout of about five pounds that had swum a total of 10 miles down Minipi Lake and up a swift river in only two weeks! While streamers and nymphs produce good action, most anglers come here to intercept the hatches of various mayflies or caddises. The preferred technique is to cast well ahead of rising gulpers as they cruise in regular patterns within limited areas. An unusual technique is casting a well-greased deer hair frog or mouse, the same used for largemouth bass, across fast water and skittering it over the surface. Huge brook trout, accustomed to feeding on swimming lemmings or mice, will explode on these lures. The trout also feed near shoreline springs and among patches of lily pads. Throughout summer, during calm stretches of weather, the most enjoyable fishing is to paddle slowly after dinner until dark, which comes late in the north country, looking for gulpers picking mayflies from the surface under a colorful Canadian sunset. Occasionally severe weather conditions call for trolling streamers to locate fish. I wear or carry my stocking foot waders in the boats (no spiked shoes in the canoes), which I’ll need when getting out to wade or portage, anyway. Arctic char, close relatives of the brook trout, can run to 10 pounds or more, although the average is about that of the brook trout. They provide variety. Late in the season, these will be found schooled in specific areas at the head of lakes, preparatory to making spawning runs up the creeks. They cruise and gulp a bit faster than the brookies. Pike are numerous and especially aggressive in the early season. They can be found in the lakes of the system, but can more regularly be caught in the fast river sections between the lakes, where they feed on juvenile trout. Fish 20 pounds or more have been taken, but the average is considerably smaller. They provide good change of pace action when trout fishing is off. Always keep a few leech flies on short wire leaders handy.

Tackle and Flies:

Five or six-weight rods, nine-feet, with weight-forward floating lines are the most used, but an 8-weight serves well to throw large dries, mice, or streamers, especially when the wind is up. Leaders of nine feet, with 1X through 4X tippets, are standard. A large variety of flies will produce. I like large (4-10) attractors, Irresistibles, Stimulators, Wulffs, although I always carry elk hair caddis and assorted standard dries down to 16. Muddlers and Wooly Buggers are de rigeur for underwater fishing. I do recall one unusual day, fishing with guide Ray Best, when we had to resort to #20 and 22 midges on 6X tippets. Consult Minipi’s website for more specifics and recommendations.

Rates and Miscellaneous Notes

Basic rates for 2005, as per the Minipi Camps’ website: $3595 (US) per week, per person, plus transportation to Goose Bay. (See website for further details.) Air Canada will get you to Goose Bay/Happy Valley, Labrador, via St. John’s, Newfoundland or Halifax, Nova Scotia. Schedules and rates are subject to change, so check with Minipi or your travel agent for the latest info. Float planes will get you to any of the lodges in less than 45 minutes from Goose Bay. Also, anticipate an overnight in Goose Bay at the front end or back end of your trip. Anticipate difficult weather conditions that can preclude your returning on the day scheduled. On the other hand, if you are stuck in camp, additional time is on the house. Weather in Labrador is changeable; always carry rain gear. Oh yes, what about the bugs, the black flies and mosquitoes? Carry repellent high in Deet. But I must say only once did I witness a really bad scenario, and that was a dense swarm that temporarily settled over another boat. Occasional bear sightings add memories to a trip.

Conclusion:

“The way it was is how it is”

That’s Minipi’s motto. I don’t know how it was, but I can’t imagine that it could have been much better than it is. I’ve taken 100 fish species on fly and have traveled widely in pursuit of my sport. Minipi is absolutely one of my favorite venues of all. I love the fish, the fishing, the people, the country, and I look forward to revisiting it many times more before hanging up my rods. If you want to see the real Canadian wilderness, without sacrificing all the creature comforts, but with a chance to catch a dream fish or two any day of your stay, consider Coopers’ Minipi Camps.